ANTHONY LENT

The Sculptor Behind the Moonface

For over 50 years, Anthony Lent has been quietly reshaping what fine jewelry can be. His pieces aren’t just about sparkle or status. They’re miniature sculptures, rich with meaning and made with extraordinary skill. Every design tells a story, often drawing on mythology, dreams, and old-world symbolism. If you’ve ever seen one of his moon-faced pendants or snake rings, you’ll know exactly what that means. They’re strange, beautiful, and unforgettable.

Lent started out studying sculpture in the early 1970s at the Philadelphia College of Art. That’s when he discovered that many of the great artists he admired, Cellini, Dürer were also goldsmiths. That realization changed everything. He travelled to Germany to train in traditional European goldsmithing techniques, and upon returning to the US, he brought that knowledge into the fine jewellery world. He eventually became head of the Jewelry Design program at FIT in New York, helping to shape the next generation of makers.

But Lent’s work always stood out. It’s full of detail and symbolism, often surreal and a little offbeat in the best way. His Celestial collection is filled with stars, moons, and expressive faces that evoke both the ancient and modern worlds. The Ouroboros, a serpent eating its tail, speaks to cycles of life and renewal. These aren’t random design choices. Lent is deeply interested in the images and patterns that have followed humanity for centuries. As he puts it, some things are just hardwired into us.

His signature style has always been about creating something otherworldly: figures with emotion and movement, tiny sculptural forms that seem to come alive when you wear them. You’ll see it in his “Sleepy Moon” faces, in hands that cradle gems, and in creatures that twist around the finger or neck. He doesn’t chase minimalism or trend-driven silhouettes. Instead, Lent leans into fantasy, blending classical proportions with a dreamlike sensibility that’s become his unmistakable hallmark.

Visit Anthony Lent at Melee The Show New York

When it comes to materials, Lent doesn’t hold back. He often works in 18k gold and oxidized sterling silver, which gives his pieces a rich, antique feel. The gemstones he uses, rose-cut diamonds, moonstones, rubies, and opals, are selected not just for their beauty but for the feeling they bring to the design. There’s a romance to the choices, whether it’s the soft shimmer of a grey diamond or the glow of a pale opal set in a crescent moon.

Everything is made in his Pennsylvania studio, where a small team of artisans brings these intricate designs to life using both traditional and modern techniques. Sculpting often begins by hand, with wax carvings that are cast into metal using the lost-wax process. In 2013, his sons, David and Max, joined the business, helping to turn his singular vision into a proper brand. Today, all Anthony Lent jewelry is still made in the US, and the focus on craftsmanship hasn’t changed. Every piece is made with intention, and nothing feels mass-produced. That’s part of what makes the work so special: it doesn’t try to fit in. It just is what it is: deeply personal, incredibly detailed, and unlike anything else.

In a jewelry world often dominated by trends and fast production, Lent’s work is a reminder that there’s still space for art, symbolism, and story. These are pieces you don’t just wear; you carry them with you.

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ALICE CLARKE